The Art of Surf Photography: John Severson

Big Surf Event


"In this crowded world, the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts...."
- John Severson

I received my first subscription to Surfer Magazine when I was 18 years old. It was an event when it arrived in my mail and I'd turn to those gorgeous full page spreads of colorful reefbreaks in far off distant lands. My college dormmates and I would argue over who had the sickest shreds and the gnarliest wipeouts; checking out the boards and racks as if we were speaking of girlfriends. In a way we were because we loved surfing.

Severson's vision created that publication and his legacy lives on through millions of people that wait patiently, each month, by their mailboxes.

PHOTOGRAPHY

The Curl. 1962.

Sunset Beach Drop. 1961.

Standing Island Pullout. 1959.

Rincon Cruise. 1960.

Mickey Munoz "The Quasimodo". 1959.

Kemp Aaberg at Rincon. 1959.

Hang Ten. 1959.

Hammond's Reef. 1964.

Greg Noll. Pipeline. 1964. "Da Bull".

Banzai Beach. 1959.

SURF ART

Wild Angels.

Ranchlands.

Soup Arch.

Golden Age.

His bestselling book, Surf Fever, is out of print. A few copies may still be available for sale on his website.

Here's a short preview of his legendary surf movie, Pacific Vibrations:

The Art of Skate Photography: Hugh Holland

Jesus Saves, Marina Del Rey, 1977.

This post is Part 2 in a series about surf and skate culture. Click here for Part 1.

Have I ever told the story about my epic wipeout while hauling ass downhill on a yellow banana board? No need for gory details, but it's the main reason why I never became a skater. But, if you were to ask me what photos embody California youth culture in the 1970s I would point you to the work of Hugh Holland.

I'll let his mini bio do the talking:

One afternoon in 1975, a young photographer named Hugh Holland drove up Laurel Canyon Boulevard in Los Angeles and encountered skateboarders carving up the drainage ditches along the side of the canyon. Immediately transfixed by their grace and athleticism, he knew he had found an amazing subject. Although not a skateboarder himself, for the next three years Holland never tired of documenting skateboarders surfing the streets of Los Angeles, parts of the San Fernando Valley, Venice Beach, and as far away as San Francisco and Baja California, Mexico. During the mid-1970s, Southern California was experiencing a serious drought, leaving an abundance of empty swimming pools available for trespassing skateboarders to practice their tricks. From these suburban backyard haunts to the asphalt streets that connected them, this was the place that created the legendary Dogtown and Z-Boys skateboarders. Indigenous to Southern California, these rebellious, daring, and highly skilled kids were at the forefront of this burgeoning sub-culture. Get the book here.

Warning: the following images make evoke a serious desire to break into your community pool and shred. I do not condone this behaviour. Unless, of course, said pool is empty.

Stacy Peralta in the Valley, 1977.

Skater School, Orange County.

Skate Shooter, Kenter Canyon Elementary, Brentwood, 1976.

Sidewalk Surfer, The Promenade, Huntington Beach, 1975.

Reach Out, 1976.

Number 79, Long Beach, 1975.

Laid Out at Kenter, 1976.

One Hangs Ten (Jeff Jones), Kenter Canyon, 1976.

In Your Face (Jay Adams), Kenter Canyon Elementary, 1976.

Hollywood Local, Hollywood Hills, 1976.

Arthur's Attitude (Arthur Lake), Kenter Canyon Elementary, 1976.

Jeff's Return.

Stacy Peralta Ripping at Coldwater Canyon Pool, 1977.

Skatepark Construction, Montebello, 1977.

Hangin in Balboa, 1975.

Riding to Ride, Highway 80, 1977.

Gold Skater, San Diego, 1975.

Asphalt Angel, Kenter Canyon Elementary, 1976.

Last Light at Kenter Elementary, 1976.

La Bufadora (Todd Foot), Ensenada, 1976.

Jeff Jones Stands on Coping, 1976.

Canyon Sunset Ride, Hollywood Hills, 1976.

Solo, Kenter Canyon Elementary, 1976.

The Art of Surf Photography: LeRoy Grannis

Pipeline, Hawaii, 1977.


It's officially summer now which grants me license to reconnect with one of my great lost loves...surfing.

In high school and into the early years of college I ate, slept, and breathed the zen art of surfing and the popular culture that surrounds it. I collected the mags, cut out the pictures, wore the clothing, listened to the music, and would travel to the beach on random weekend excursions for all day sessions. But let's face it, I sucked, which I will blame entirely on my physical distance from the ocean...any ocean.

Unlike most things learning how to surf is not like riding a bike. There are many variables: from stance (regular or goofy footed), to board preference (short or long; skinny or thick rails). You also need to become a master (of sorts) at reading surf reports by checking the weather for tides, currents, wave size, etc. Every shore line, pier, dock, jetty, and reef break is different from the next and it varies wildly. I've surfed (or attempted) most of the Eastern seaboard from Delaware to Florida, the Gulf Coast of Texas, and Hawaii. Different, different, different, AND different.

I've sucked at 'em all but loved every minute of it.

This will be a continuation set throughout the summer as I rediscover some of the great photographers and their surf masters.

By Steve Barilotti. Excerpt from the book "LeRoy Grannis, Surf Photography":

Upon first glance, his photos may evoke nostalgia for a simpler, more naive era, but closer inspection reveals that he was documenting surfing's rapid evolution into an iconic lifestyle. His photos captured the real thing, providing a bridge between the world of Beach Boy lyrics and the reality of the Southern California beach scene. Surf language, surf music, surf art, surf media, surf fashion - all the basic elements of what are now considered essential to modern surf culture were either conceived or codified within this brief window of time. Grannis was one of the few surf photographers to swing his camera off the wave action and record it all. Get it here.

Into Another Realm: "Midget" Farrelly Surfs the Shore Break off Makaha, Hawaii in 1968.

Mahaka (No. 62). There's a full house back there waiting to drop in.

Greg Noll's Surf Team in '66.

Unknown Surfer, Pipeline, Oahu 1972.

Dewey Weber. That's one serious longboard.

Chevy Truck. 1963.

Car, Van, Wagon, Bike, Walk...just get your ass to the shore. Circa 1960's.

Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Finalists, 1968.

Chris Cattel, Huntington Beach, 1963.

Pipeline, c. 1965. Even the lookie loos know that that session is finished. Bummer.

Mike Doyle, Hermosa Beach, 1963. The Tiki Gods best be prayin' for larger surf breaks instead of that shore slop.

Hermosa Beach c. 1960's. I want one of those Schwinn Stingrays.

Marsha Bainer, Torrance Beach, 1964.

Jacobs Surfboards Advertising Shoot, Hermosa Beach, 1963.

The Lensman in Action.